Standing at the edge of everything is not just a metaphor when you’re at Cape Flattery. It is literally the northwesternmost point of the contiguous United States, and the feeling of being at land’s end — surrounded by crashing Pacific swells, sea caves, and the ancient forest of the Makah Reservation — stays with you long after you leave. Pair that with Ruby Beach, one of the most photographed coastlines in Olympic National Park, and you have a West End day worth building a trip around.
Cape Flattery: The Northwest Corner
The trail to Cape Flattery begins just outside Neah Bay, deep on the Makah Reservation near the tip of the Olympic Peninsula’s northwest arm. It’s a short hike — about 0.75 miles each way — but the journey through old-growth Sitka spruce and western red cedar forest sets the tone entirely. Ferns crowd the understory. Wooden boardwalks carry you over soft, moss-covered ground, and the salt air sharpens with every step toward the coast.
At the end of the trail, a series of cedar-railed viewing platforms jut out over the cliffs. Below you, sea caves open into the rock. Pacific swells push through in rhythmic pulses, turquoise against black basalt. On clear spring days, you can see Tatoosh Island clearly — the lighthouse there has been operating since 1857 and sits on land the Makah Tribe considers sacred. Gray whales sometimes pass within view in May, the tail end of their northward migration.
Access requires a Makah Recreation Pass, available for $10 per vehicle per year. You can pick one up at the trailhead kiosk, at the Makah Cultural and Research Center in Neah Bay, or online through the tribe’s website. The pass directly supports the Makah Tribe’s management of the Cape Flattery area, and the trail itself is maintained by the tribe to a remarkably high standard. Arrive early on clear spring weekends — the small parking area fills by mid-morning, and there is no overflow lot.
From downtown Forks, plan about 90 minutes of driving via Highway 101 north and then Highway 112 west all the way to Neah Bay. The road is paved the entire way and well-suited for any vehicle. Stop in Neah Bay for fuel before heading to the trailhead — there are no services on the final stretch.
Ruby Beach: Sea Stacks and Tidal Wonders
About 27 miles south of Forks on Highway 101, Ruby Beach marks the northern end of Olympic National Park’s coastal strip — and it is a genuine showstopper. Abbey Island, a massive offshore sea stack, dominates the view. Smaller stacks punctuate the surf in both directions. Enormous driftwood logs, bleached silver by decades of Pacific weather, pile into natural sculptural forms along the high tide line. The whole scene has the quality of a landscape that doesn’t quite look real.
In May, the beach rewards visitors who time their arrival with the low tide. The rocks beneath and around the sea stacks become passable, revealing tide pool communities packed with purple sea urchins, ochre sea stars, hermit crabs, anemones, and chitons clinging to exposed basalt. The intertidal zone here is particularly rich because the beach is protected as part of ONP — no harvest, no collection. Look but don’t touch is the rule, and it shows in the health of the community.
Access from Highway 101 is simple. Ruby Beach Road drops off the main highway and leads to a paved parking lot with vault toilets. The Olympic National Park entrance fee (currently $35 per vehicle) applies, and an America the Beautiful Annual Pass covers it entirely. The walk from the parking lot to the beach is short, mostly flat, and accessible to most visitors.
Dress for coastal conditions. Temperature at Ruby Beach typically runs 8 to 12 degrees cooler than inland Forks, and morning fog is common in May even when the forecast looks clear. Waterproof boots are worth the extra weight when the tide is low and you want to explore around the base of the sea stacks.
Plan Your Visit
Cape Flattery: Trailhead at the end of Cape Flattery Road, Neah Bay, WA 98357. Makah Recreation Pass required — $10/vehicle/year. Trail is 1.5 miles round trip on boardwalk. Dogs on leash permitted. No restrooms at the trailhead; use facilities in Neah Bay before you go.
Ruby Beach: Off Hwy 101 approximately 27 miles south of Forks, Olympic National Park. $35 vehicle fee or America the Beautiful Pass. Paved parking with vault toilets. Open year-round, no reservations needed. Check tide tables before you go — low tides in the 0 to +2 ft range are ideal for tide pool exploration.
Pairing the two: If you’re running both stops in one day, do Cape Flattery first (earlier in the day before the parking fills) and Ruby Beach on the return. Allow 45 minutes minimum at Cape Flattery and at least an hour at Ruby Beach. Forks is the logical midpoint for fuel and lunch — The Smoke House Restaurant on South Forks Avenue is a reliable local stop.
For road conditions and current NPS closures on the coastal strip, call the Olympic National Park general information line at 360-565-3130.
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